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WITH SYNGE IN CONNEMARA

  IhadofteadaywalkingwithJohnSyayearortwoagoItravelledforamonthalohroughthewestofIrelandwithhim.Hewasthebestpanionforaroadwayanyonecouldhave,alwaysreadyandalwaysthesame;aboldwalker,uphillanddowhehotsunaingrain.IrememberadelugeontheErrisPeninsula,wherewelayamongthesandhillsandathissuggestionheapedsanduponourselvestotryandkeepdry.

  Wheartedonourjourney,asthetrainsteamedoutofDublin,Syngesaid:Nowtheelderofustwoshouldbeinandonthistrip.SoweparednotesandIfoundthathewastwomonthsolderthanmyself.Sohewasbossandwhewasaquestioherweshouldtaketheroadtothewestortheroadtothesouth,itwasSyngewhofinallydecided.

  Syngewasfondoflittlechildrenandanimals.IrememberhowgladhewastostopandleanonawallinGorumnaandwataninafieldshearingasheep.Itwasanoldsheepandmusthaveoftenbeenshearedbeforebythesamehand,forthewomanhardlyheldit;shejustkbesideitandsnippedaway.Irememberthesheepraiseditsleanoldheadtolookatthestranger,andthewomanjustputherhandonitscheekalypresseditsheaddownonthegrassagain.

  Syngewasdelightedwiththenarrowpathsmadeofsodsofgrassalongsidethenewly?metalledroads,becausehethoughttheyhadbeenputtheretomakesoftgoingforthebarefeetoflittlechildren.Childrehink,thathewishedthemwell.InBellmulletonSaintJohnseve,wheoodinthemarketsquarewatgthefire?play,flamingsodsofturfsoakedinparaffine,hurledtotheskyandcaughtandskiedagain,andburningsnakesofhay?rope,Irememberalittlegirlinthecrowd,iasyofpleasureanddread,clutchedSyhehandandstoodcloseinhisshadowuntilthefierygamesweredone.

  HisknowledgeofGaelicwasagreatassistaohimintalkingtothepeople.IrememberhimholdingagreatversationinIrishandEnglishwithaninnkeeperswifeinaMayoinn.ShehadlivedinAmeriLinsday.ShetolduswhatlivingcostinAmericathen,andofherlifethere;herlittleoldhusbandsittingbyandputtinginanoddword.Bytheway,thehusbandwasawentle?manneredman,forwehadluninhishouseofbiscuitsandporter,aedthereanhour,waitingforaheavyshowertoblowaway;andwhenwesaidgood?byeandourfeetwereactuallyontheroad,Syngesaid,Didwepayforwhatwehad?SoIcalledbacktotheinnkeeper,Didwepayyou?andhesaidquietly,sir.

  Syngewasalwaysdelightedtohearandrememberanygoodphrase.IrememberhisdelightatthewordsofalocalpolitiwhotoldushowhebecameaNationalist.Iwas,hesaidplugabookfromthemantlepiece(Irememberthebook??itaulandVirginia)andclaspingittohisbreast??Iwasbutalittlechildwithmylittlebookgoingtoschool,andbythehousethereIsawtheageooktheunfortuenantandthrunhimintheroad,andIsawthemanswifeeandtheagentswifethruheel,andwhenIsawthat,thoughIwasbutachild,IsworeIdbeaNationalist.Isworebyheaven,andIsworebyhellandalltheriversthatrunthroughthem.

  Syhavereadagreatdealatoime,buthewasnotamanyouwouldseeoftenwithabookinhishand;hewouldsooalk,orratherlistentotalk??almostaalk.

  Syngewasalwaysreadytogoanywherewithone,aheretoenjoywhatcame.HewentwithmetoseeanordinarymelodramaattheQueere,Dublin,andhedelightedtoseehowthemembersofthepanycouldbythevehemeheirmovementsandtheresourcesoftheirvoicesholdyourattentiononaplaywhereeverythingwasonplace.Heenjoyedseeiritevillainofthepieeupfromthebottomofthegulch,hurledtherebytheadventuress,andflashhissweatingblood?stainedfaceupagainstthefootlights;and,thoughhetoldushehadbutafewshortmomentstolive,roarhistritionwiththevoiceofabull.

  SyravelledagreatdealinItalyintrackshebeatoutforhimself,andinGermanyandinFraheonlyoccasionallyspoketomeabouttheseplaces.IthinktheIrishpeasanthadallhisheart.Helovedthemiaswellashelovedthemi,butthewesterheAranIslandsandintheBlasketsfittedinwithhishumourmorethanany;thewildthingstheydidandsaidwereajoytohim.

  Syngewasbyspiritwellequippedfortheroads.Thoughhishealthwasoftenbad,hehadbeatingunderhisribsabraveheartthatcarriedhimhtracks.Hegatheredabouthimverylittlegear,andcarednothingforfortexceptperhapsthatofagoodturffire.Hewas,thoughyounginyears,anolddogforahardroadandnotayoungpupforatow?path.

  Helovedmadses.HetoldmehowohefairofTraleehesawanoldtinker?womahepolidshewasstrugglingwiththemireofthefair;whensuddenly,asifhergarmentswereheldtogetherwithonecord,shehurledeveryshredofclothingfromher,randowreetandscreamed,letthisbethebarrackyard,whicherfectlyuoodbythecrowdassuggestingthatthepolicestripaheirprisonerswhethemshutin,inthebarrackyard.Theyoungmenlaughed,buttheoldmenhurriedafterthenakedfleetingfiguretryingtothrowherclothesonherassheran.

  ButallwildsightsappealedtoSynge,hedidnotcarewhethertheyweretypicalofanythingelseorhadanysymbolicalmeaningatall.Ifhehadlivedinthedaysofpiracyhewouldhavebeenthefiddlerinapirate?

  ser,himtheycalledthemusic??Themusiclookedonateverythingwithdangeyesbutdrewnosword,aheserwastakenandthepirateshungatCapeCorsoCastleorTheIslandofSaintChristophers,themusicaredbecausehewasthemusic.

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